could not be further from the truth. The French Intensive method does not require a vast investment in timber; the soil is raised simply through cultivation and the introduction of air into the soil. The French Intensive method only requires the gardener to shift from planting in rows (moved about from season to season) to planning in permanent beds. The beds become the focus of all soil-building efforts. In turn, the paths are made permanent and all the traffic in the garden is restricted to those paths. This allows the soil in the beds to undergo a remarkable transformation.

Raised beds provide the gardener with a number of important benefits. By employing a method of deep cultivation, they mimic nature's own soil dynamics of aeration and drainage. Raised beds drain readily, allowing earlier planning in the spring. At the same time they warm up faster, which encourages faster rooting and earlier growth and leads to earlier harvests. The soil is kept loose and well-aerated in raised beds so that the plants are able to establish more vigorous root systems and take advantage of a larger portion of the nutrients in the soil. Because the beds are never walked on, there is minimum compaction of the soil in the growing area, which results in better retention of soil structure.

Studies show that the yield, when using this method, is four times the yield of traditional row planting because of the more efficient use of space in the garden. In his book The Self Sufficient Gardener, John Seymour wrote of his own skepticism about the vast difference between the two methods: “I…had read these figures but did not fully believe them. I went to California to see for myself…Seeing is believing and in this case I am completely convinced of the superiority of this method.”

Constructing raised beds is relatively simple. Traditionally they are constructed using a technique called “double digging.” To begin, lay out a bed four to five feet wide—a good rule of thumb is to make the bed twice as wide as you can reach. The bed can be made as long as needed or as space allows. One important consideration when deciding on the length of the bed, however, is the time it will take you to walk around it; once established you should never walk on it. A convenient length for most people is 20 to 25 feet. Raised beds are often oriented to the south so that the plants in the bed get an even exposure to light as the sun moves from east to west. You can lay your beds out side by side with paths in between. Be sure your paths are wide enough to allow you to move comfortably around the beds.

After marking out the area, lay a covering of manure or compost on top of the bed. For vegetable gardens you could use Red Star steer manure or Gardener & Bloome Harvest Supreme. If establishing beds for perennials or other plants, use our Red Star Humus Gro. If needed, you can also add Gypsite or fertilizers like Red Star Gro Master to the bed at this time. To begin digging, simply dig a trench to a spade's depth and width. Set the soil from the trench aside in a wheelbarrow. Dig your spade or fork into the bottom of the trench and loosen the soil as deeply as you can; leave the large clods in the bottom of the trench at this time to aid in loosening the deeper layers of soil.

Working backwards down the length of the bed, dig out a second trench next to the first one and “slide” the soil and manure or compost into the first trench. Do not invert the soil layers if possible—keep the topsoil on the surface and the sub-soil below it. Work the bottom of the second trench as you did the first. From here, move the third spade's width of soil into the second trench. Continue in the fashion until you reach the end of the bed. After loosening the soil in the bottom of the last trench, fill it with the soil from the first trench. Looking down the length of your newly tilled bed, you will see that the soil has formed a rough mound. In fact, you may be surprised to find the soil much more raised than you imagined possible.

To complete the process, use a digging fork to work the surface of the new bed, breaking up clods as you go. Use the fork in a lifting motion to bring clods to the surface—like sifting flour. A gently side-to-side motion with the fork breaks the clods up into a finer texture. Don't pound down onto the bed to break up the clods of soil. This only serves to compact the soil again. Rake any soil that falls onto the paths back up into the bed.

From this point onward, NEVER WALK ON THE BED nor let anyone else walk on it. Always tend and work the bed from the paths. The only time you should walk in the bed again is if you are deep digging for another season.

Raised beds are easily adapted for use throughout the garden. The same methods can be extended to preparing areas for planting annual flowers, bulbs, perennials, roses, and other shrubs. Even trees can be planted using this technique. In all cases you garden and the plants growing in it will benefit from the richly prepared soil. The time and energy required to transform your garden will be paid back immeasurably by the increased yields and the ease of maintaining raised beds.