Beautiful bougainvillea, that evergreen subtropical plant from South America, comes in several different forms. The most common is a vine--a vine that does not twine or cling--but a vine nonetheless. It also comes in a shrub form and a ground cover.

The vibrant colors are not the flower, but are colorful bracts surrounding a small, inconspicuous flower. The color show begins in spring and can continue into the winter. Now, you can't ask much more of any flowering plant!

A mature vine bougainvillea in full bloom is simply a huge "WOW!" factor in any garden. The vine bougainvillea is a fast grower and needs regular pruning to keep in good form. Because of this vigorous growth, any structure chosen for support must be very sturdy.

Yes, they do have thorns. Keep that in mind when you are thinking of the best location in your landscape.

Other bougainvilleas have a low-growing form which is perfect for containers. Place containers near the edge of a balcony and the bougainvillea will grow outward and down, spilling color over the outside wall of your home.

Great care must be taken when planting bougainvilleas. The roots do not like much handling so do not disturb the root ball. You can cut out the bottom of the pot and plant both bougainvillea and pot. Alternatively, carefully make four vertical cuts down the side of the nursery container and carefully pull all four sides farther apart. Supporting the base of the root ball (not grasping the trunk of the plant), gently remove the plant from the growing container and carefully place it into the ground or new container, remembering that the roots are very sensitive to handling.

Bougainvilleas like full sun and regular watering. If you water too much, they won't bloom. Fertilize with Dr. Earth Rose & Flower Fertilizer.

Bougainvilleas come in white, yellow/orange, pink, red, and purple. Plant all one color for a huge color impact, or mix and match colors, to create the look of an impressionist painting.

Perhaps one of the most beautiful flowers around is the tuberous begonia. There are many varieties, from single or double flower, ruffled-petal flowers, to camellia- or carnation-form flowers. There are even pendulous forms perfect for hanging baskets.

Their colors are extremely vivid, ranging from reds and red-orange to orange, yellow, white and hot pink; there are even bi-colored varieties. The tuberous begonia is a highly versatile plant whose almost fluorescent flowers are wonderful in flowerbeds, patio containers, window boxes or even hanging baskets.

Tuberous begonias will bloom for you all summer long and into early fall. They will thrive in shadier areas where few other flowers with long bloom times and showy flowers will even grow.

Although they are not frost hardy, they can be pulled out of the ground as they start to go dormant in fall, then cleaned off and stored in a cool, dry location over winter and replanted in spring after any danger of frost is gone. Handled correctly, they can provide years of beauty in the garden.

They should be planted in soil that maintains moisture, but also drains (no standing water). If you plant into the ground, you may need to amend first. For best results in containers, be sure to plant using a high-quality potting soil.

These begonias like indirect light or dappled shade locations and need to be kept moist with regular watering. Please take care not to let them dry out. To maintain their vibrant blooms, feed regularly with Dr. Earth Organic 7 All Purpose Fertilizer.

We have spectacular varieties available right now, just waiting for a home in your garden. Visit us soon for the best selection.

Although the Fourth of July is over, it's not too late to create a patriotic planter in red, white, and blue! For reds: try verbena, petunia, Sweet William, or salvia. For blues: bachelor's button, salvia, petunia, or lobelia. For whites: alyssum, petunia, candytuft.Now...on to the July tasks in your gardens!

Planting
You can still plant some annuals and perennials in your summer gardens. For annuals, try marigolds, portulaca, and zinnias for that huge splash of color. For perennials, and even more color, plant coreopsis, gaura, rudbeckias, salvias, and many more.

Tropical plants are popular now and can be brought into any garden, whether tropical, cottage, or country themes. Flowering shrubs include hibiscus, brugmansia (Angel's Trumpet), canna, bougainvillea, and vines such as passion flower or Burmese honeysuckle. Large-leaf evergreens include philodendrons, xanadu, tree ferns, and gingers. You can even include abutilon, which comes in several colors including red, yellow, orange, and pink.

Harvesting
You are probably busy harvesting and enjoying your summer vegetables like green beans, tomatoes, eggplant, squashes, and peppers. You can also continue to plant these veggies to extend your crop harvest.

Maintenance
This time of year is often a major "pest" time in our gardens. Those holes in your rose leaves are from the rose slug. Aphids love the rose buds, and more. You can wash off these pests with water. You can also use Bayer Rose & Flower Insect Spray. Caterpillars are abundant; try a spray containing Bt. And we can't forget snails--they won't let us.

It's feeding time for your flowerbeds, roses, vegetables and warm-season lawns. Come in and ask one of us which fertilizers will be best for each of your plant needs. We offer a wide selection of fertilizers: multipurpose, organic, and slow release.

You can do some pruning, even though it's summertime. Fuchsia 'Gartenmeister,' gaura, and salvias will look much better if cut back by about 1/3. Oh...and your catmint, too.

If you forgot to increase your watering from the spring months, you must do so now. Trees (non-citrus) and shrubs will need deep soaks once each month in the summer, and regular irrigation in between. Citrus and your flowerbeds need regular weekly watering.

Those of you growing tomatoes and peppers, watch for tomato hornworms. They will need to be hand-picked from your foliage.

As usual, mulch, mulch, mulch! We will always tell you to mulch. This does not mean mound up the mulch to 5 feet. It means continue to replenish the mulch and maintain a 2-4 inch blanket over your soil. So when you hear us singing the MULCH song, you know just what we mean!

And last, but not least, have a very Happy Independence Day!

If you have plants that suddenly keel over in the middle of the night, you might have cutworms. Closer inspection will usually reveal that the main stem has been severed from the roots.

The adult cutworms are night-flying moths that lay eggs on grass tips or on the soil next to lawn or plant stems in the fall. In the spring, the larvae emerge and begin developing, feeding on leaves, buds and soft plant stems as they mature. They get their name from their habit of "cutting" off a seedling at ground level by chewing through the stem. There are a number of species involved, so identification is most easily done by identifying the damage. Most cutworms will roll up in a ball if disturbed.

Natural remedies include pouring a ring of molasses around the plants, and placing foil or cardboard collars around your plants. Collars should penetrate at least an inch down and up several inches. Also helpful are beneficial nematodes or a pesticide like Cooke Slug, Snail and Insect Bait.

The major reason lavender plants are so prized is that their flowers keep their fragrance when dried. Besides being beautiful and aromatic, lavender flowers are also edible. They can be used as a seasoning, added to salads, baked into cookies and brewed into tea. They can also be candied and used as a cake decoration.

For best drying results, harvest the flowers as the buds first begin to open. In general, wait until any rain or dew has dried from the plants. Harvest midday when the heat brings the most fragrance out of the flowers. Hang in small bunches upside down in a warm, dry spot with good air circulation and out of direct light.

Use rubber bands to tie the stems together for drying because they will contract along with the drying stems. If you wish to remove the flower buds from the stems for potpourri after drying, place the bound bundles inside a pillow case. Then roll it up and gently press and roll it on a hard surface--as if it were a rolling pin. (You can throw away the stems or take them camping and place on a campfire to repel mosquitoes.) Then scoop out the flower buds and place in sachets or potpourri dishes.

How often should I water the plants in the ground in my garden?

Answer:
The simple answer would be however often it takes to keep your soil moist but not wet.

As a rule, the hotter it gets, the more you will have to water. In the cooler months, you only water between periods of extended dry weather or high wind, which can also stress or dry a plant out.

When it is hot, increase the length of time you water your plants, not the frequency of watering. Most plants need to be watered at least twice a week; new plants that have yet to be established should be checked every other day. Remember that checking does not necessarily mean watering! We recommend that the top couple of inches of ground dry out between waterings.

Using drip irrigation is the most effective method. It is also important to group plants with similar watering needs together.

If a plant is too dry, the foliage will have a wilted appearance or begin to burn on the outside leaf tips.

If a plant is too wet, it will lose its luster and quickly drop faded leaves, starting from the inside of the plant and working its way to the leaf tips.

Make sure not to use soft water on any plants. The salt in the water can burn or kill plants. Fluoridated water is fine, because your plants will look better when they smile.