Frost damage to plants is much like desiccation from lack of water. We described this in our previous article on frost. Freezing temperatures severely dehydrate plant tissues. Water in the plant tissue freezes and expands the plant's cells, causing irreparable damage. It is only when the temperature rises that the damage to your plant becomes apparent. A 'burned' appearance may show at the top of the plant on the highest leaves (or the leaves most exposed to the freezing temperature), working its way down the stem and on through to the lower leaves. This 'burn' did not manifest itself immediately, but certainly did within a day or so.

Ok, soon we will be past the possibility of any more frosty mornings. You have a number of plants in your garden that looked like they have died - or should have. What do you do to help your poor, pathetic-looking plants? What we first would recommend is that you WATCH them. As our temperatures warm, look to see if new leaf buds are emerging. In all likelihood, there will be new growth. This is why: although there may be soft-tissue (foliage) damage to your plants, the soil probably never froze, and the roots are just fine. Keep that in mind; the plant will begin to tell itself "Ouch - I've lost my foliage cover and food-producing tissues. I'd better start growing again!" Such plants may simply re-foliate and will look beautiful again in the spring.

There may be other plants in your garden with additional damage into the branches, beyond just the foliage. These plants will send messages from the leaf bud areas in the non-damaged regions of the branches to begin growing new foliage. It is when this growth begins that you will breathe a sigh of relief AND only then will the plant tell you what to do next. When you begin to see new foliage and perhaps even new small branching, the plant is telling you, "Please cut my frost-ruined branch back to just in front of the new growth." And that is exactly how you will prune.

Some of your plants may take a while to rebound from all of this damage. Watch the foliage for rotting. If you are convinced that the possibility of frost is in the past, then consider removing the dead foliage from the branches to prevent further unhealthy damage to your plants from the rotting foliage. Wait for new leaves or branching before pruning back damaged branches from these plants.

As you begin to see the new spring growth, remember to feed all your plants with Dr. Earth Organic 7 All Purpose Fertilizer. Their first order of business this year will be to grow new foliage. Flowering, if it's a flowering plant, will come later.

Now there may be some plants that just took too hard a hit with the frost and cannot recover, or cannot recover in an aesthetic manner. Thank those plants for their ongoing worthiness in your garden. Then come to the garden center and find a new member for your garden. If you need help, we're here for you to offer sympathy, support, and future plant selection suggestions.

Planting
The 2007 roses are here. Late this month or early next month they will begin that first bloom. And all of you rose lovers know what that first bloom is: blossoms with wonderful color and fragrance! For those of you who were waiting to select a new rose shrub until you could see the actual flower, this will be the month to stop by the garden center and stroll through the roses!

Did you know that azaleas and camellias are best planted while blooming? They began their blooming in February, so March is right in the middle of their blooming season. DON'T feed your camellias until they have completed their blooming! If you do, they will drop a lot of the remaining buds and you will be so very unhappy, thinking that you killed your shrub. Fertilize to reward the plant AFTER the blooming ends.

Spring color plants are arriving daily! Color up your gardens with perennials and annuals. Look for perennials such as campanula, columbine, coral bells, delphinium, foxglove (digitalis), diascia, penstemon, salvia, yarrow and so much more. Great annuals to pick from include begonias, celosia, coleus, dianthus, lobelia, marigolds, nicotiana, petunias, salvias, and verbena.

There is still time for planting bulbs! Tuberous begonias, caladium, calla, dahlia, gladiolus and many more are available.

Spring is a good time for planting many of our native plants. If you are in a region that still anticipates some frost, hold off until you are sure the frosty nights and mornings are finished. Think of how you are contributing to water saving if you have a garden of native plants, or even just a portion of your garden with water-wise plants.

Ladies and gentlemen: Start your vegetable gardens! Such veggies as squash, onions, lettuce, Swiss chard, peppers, and tomatoes are here. This is also a good time not only to prune back herbs from last year, but also add in new plants such as chives, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon, and thyme.
Maintenance Duties

Fertilize your lawns with Dr. Earth Super Natural Lawn Food or Turf Supreme.

Fertilize your roses with Dr. Earth Organic 3 Rose & Flower Fertilizer.

Snails will be out to munch on tender, new growth. Time to purchase your favorite snail bait.

Now is the time to divide perennials such as agapanthus, callas, daylilies, rudbeckia, and daisies. Those with fuchsias can cut them back two-thirds toward the main branches. Remember to leave 2-5 leaf bud/scars for new growth.

You can begin pruning your ornamental shrubs (pittosporum, boxwood, etc.) for hedges. Wait to prune spring flowering shrubs and trees until their blooming is over.

Now is the time to apply a pre-emergent grass and weed prevention product on all of your garden beds. Following the application of the pre-emergent, re-mulching will be important.

Mulch, Mulch, and Mulch More!
We often tell you to mulch. This does not mean we want you to mound the mulch up 5 feet. It means you should continue to replenish your mulch and maintain a 2-4 inch blanket over your soil. So when you hear us singing the 'mulch' song, you'll know just what we mean!

Oxalis is variously known as wood sorrel, shamrock, woodland groundcover, hanging basket plant, container plant, shade plant, sun plant, but also as a noxious, invasive weed.  Wow, how can one plant have so many descriptors? It happens because Oxalis, or Oxalidaceae, is a plant family with over 800 varieties around the world. Any family with that many members is going to have relatives that no one likes. For example, the Oxalis pescaprae and Oxalis corniculata members - both are known as highly invasive weeds in our yards and gardens.

We are not writing about the nasty relatives that you see in the picture below.

We want you to learn about the wonderful family members; there are many that we think you would love to have in your containers or hanging baskets! Many have beautiful foliage and flowers - they look wonderful in hanging baskets, containers, or as a groundcover.

Did we mention shamrocks? Yes, but did you know that there are a number of plants sold as "shamrocks" at St. Patrick's Day? You may see Oxalis acetosella, but the Oxalis regnellii is the plant that most reminds us of the commercialized "shamrock." Below are three examples of Oxalis regnellii. All have the three-leaflet leaf pattern, which is symbolic of the Trinity. They are from South America and do well in our area.

Oxalis regnellii likes cool air and moist soil. Bright indirect light is best, but they will grow in lower light levels. Fertilize weekly while they are growing with a balanced fertilizer. From time to time, the foliage will begin to fade.  Shamrocks are bulbs, and the plant is asking for a dormant period. During that time, restrict all watering. As with any bulb, let the leaves die back naturally. Do not remove any leaves until they are brown. Let the bulbs stay dormant for 3 to 4 weeks, then water and fertilize. In most indoor-grown shamrocks, this dormant period occurs 2 to 3 times a year.

Now do you see what we mean about the range of characteristics in the oxalis plant family? Just keep this in mind when you go in search of the perfect oxalis or shamrock: all oxalis are created equal...but some are more equal than others.