Soon many of us will be planting our tomatoes (some may have already started early tomatoes) and pole beans. These vegetables are tiny when we buy them or start them from seed, but will soon be in great need of some structural support. Those of us who have been growing vegetables for years have tried many different types of supports with varying success. Let's look at some of the old standbys and suggestions to make them work effectively for you.

But first, we want you to consider size control on your tomato plants. What do we mean? Left to their own, some tomato plants, or vines actually, will grow and grow to a size no structure can hold. Before that happens to you, consider one of the best ways to control the size.

As your tomato plant grows to a 2-3 foot height, look at its structure. You will notice that supplemental branching sprouts from leaf axial areas. You can control the size of your plant by removing some (or all of them, if you like) of this secondary branching. Some tomato growers highly recommend this technique, others suggest moderation, and we are simply suggesting that removing some of them will keep your plant size under control.

You don't have to remove all of them, but you can. You can also eventually "top" your tomato plant, too. Both techniques will offer size control. However, both techniques will also limit the degree of fruiting. On the plus side, this method will keep your tomato plant at a size manageable for you and your plant structures.

Tomato cages ...you know the kind that I mean. They are funnel shaped and made from thick wire. They come in several different sizes, starting with one that is only about two feet tall. Of course, tomato plants don't usually stop growing at that height. So this size will work with young plants that need early support, but they are not meant to last for the entire season, especially with indeterminate tomatoes that become exceptionally large.

Once that small tomato plant that you purchased in a 4-inch pot grows into a 2-foot plant, it is time to add the largest of the tomato cages, the one that is 4-5 feet tall. You don't even have to remove that first small cage, necessarily. But your growing plant will need this further support, that is for sure. If you have chosen to remove a portion of your tomato plant through thinning and/or topping, these cages should work just fine.

Trellis structures are great for tomatoes, not just the flowering vines in your perennial gardens. Yes, you can grow tomatoes by espalier. Not only will this be a sturdy structure, it is esthetically beautiful, too. As your tomato grows, offer support to the branches by tying them to the trellis. To minimize the weight of the plant, you may need to employ the "thinning" technique (removal of some of the axial branching). The trellis can be placed up against a wall for support. You can also take two trellises and form a trellis "A-frame." Plant the tomato in the middle and as it grows, you have trellis support on both sides of the plant.

Another structure can be used for both tomatoes and for pole beans. Pole beans are great because the crops are huge and produce for a long time. The story of Jack and the Bean Stalk has some truth in it: pole beans will grow and grow and grow! One of our favorite ways to support them is wooden or bamboo teepees.

You can take three 1x1 inch stakes (6 feet or longer) and drill one hole through all three at one end. Insert a large screw bolt through the three holes and tighten them together with a butterfly nut, but not too tightly. You want enough play to allow you to turn the stakes into position (then you can tighten). That's it! Simple. Equally elegant is tying together three 6'-8' bamboo stakes and forming the same type of teepee. Plant at least 3 bean plants at the base of each of the three teepee legs too, so there will be, at a minimum, 9 bean plants per teepee. You can also add a stake between two teepees, interconnecting them, to give the bean plants further growth support, once their height has exceeded the teepee stake heights.

Our wooden trellis structures will also work perfectly for the pole beans. Hammer a 5-6 foot 2x2 inch stake into the ground at one end of your trellis. Hammer a second one into the ground at the opposite end. This provides about a 5-6 foot long vertical trellis structure for your beans. This looks great, and is a fabulous way to grow beans as well. Leave space on both sides of this structure, so that you can access all the beans.

Off you go to purchase your supplies for this year's vegetable garden. Remember, attractive structures add interest to your garden. Oh yes, and they will keep your tomatoes, beans or any other sprawling veggies much neater looking , less tangled and still offer plentiful vegetable production. Good luck, and enjoy!

Above is a little background information for you about your garden variety azalea, the Azalea indica. Here is another tidbit: there are two categories of evergreen Azalea indica for our gardens, sun and shade. Now that just makes lots of sense, doesn't it? Not all azaleas need to be in the shade, but that is the favorite spot for the Belgian indica azaleas. Luckily, there are those that are filtered sun lovers: the Southern indica azaleas.

There are many hybrids of both the Belgian and Southern indicas, too many to mention here. What that means to a gardener is a wide choice of flower color-solids or bicolor; and flower style- frilly and ruffled or simple and elegant. There is also a range in bloom times, bloom sizes, plant size and growth habit (which can be from 2-3 feet with dense, small foliage or up to 8 feet with an open, lacy growth habit). With a comprehensive selection, your garden could have azaleas blooming from late winter into late spring, in the sun and in the shade.

Azaleas love acid soil, good amendments, and fertilizers. When planting your azaleas, be sure to mix the native soil of your garden with an ¾ of an azalea (acid) planting amendment or Red Star Mix & Mulch or peat moss. They like good drainage but do not like their roots to stay too wet or dry out. Plant them so that the root crown is about 1 inch above the soil line. Once they are planted, mulch, mulch, and mulch.

There are many people who really love to have live plants in containers in their homes or on their patios. A subset of these plant lovers simply can't grow houseplants. So, no matter how hard they try, how many plants they buy, all plants in their hands will die. How sad. Garden centers, if they knew the plight of that special orchid or palm tree, would hesitate to let the plant go to such a plant lover/plant killer's home!

Well, there is a bright solution for these people, lovers of plants but born with a talent for killing them. There are plants that will take the abuse without a second thought!

Here is a nice short list. These plants are very attractive - and they don't ask for much in the way of care. They will grace your home without your having to switch to silk substitutes!

Aspidistra (Cast Iron Plant) This plant gained its name for an excellent reason. It can take just about any growing condition. From a bright window to a corner with no light at all, it will be happy. The plant is a single stem with a long (~2') narrow, dark green leaf. There is also a variety with some variegated white stripes. It grows in clusters and can be divided if it becomes too full.
Beaucarnea (Ponytail Palm) This one is an interesting-looking plant that has a bulbous, rounded base or 'trunk'. The foliage is long, narrow, and strappy, arching out from a central stem - resembling a ponytail. It needs minimal watering - it likes to be watered well, but then prefers to dry out (sound familiar?).
Dracaena Sanderiana (Lucky Bamboo) In spite of its name, this is really not a bamboo. But it is an easy plant to grow. Usually, you will see it in garden centers or gift shops in nice vases with the roots immersed in water. So, all that you will need to remember to do is occasionally add water. This plant also would be happy having the roots planted into soil, but for those of you who have trouble with watering, growing this in water would be more "lucky" for you!
Dracaena Deremensis Compacta This dracaena, a cousin of the larger trees, is a beautiful compact form. The foliage is dark green, glossy, lance-like leaves. It tolerates any light levels and lack of water. If you have forgotten to water your plant, deep soak the plant by submerging into a bucket of water for an hour or so. It will forgive you instantly and continue to grow happily wherever you choose to put it.
Peperomia Wonderful heart-shaped leaves and a number of varieties; you could have a peperomia with white and green foliage, or deeply grooved green heart shaped foliage. The leaves are thick and hold water. Lucky for those of you who forget to water, they will hold water for a long period. This does not mean "no water", but it's definitely more drought tolerant that most other household plants. Some varieties are great for indoor hanging baskets. They will grow in full sun, part sun or under fluorescent lights.
Sansevieria (Mother-in-Law Tongue) Hardy, hardy, hardy. That is not the origin of this plant's name, however. The thick, elongated, pointed leaf must have borne some resemblance to someone's mother-in-law, once upon a time. This plant is drought tolerant, and flexible in its sun/shade needs. It could also have the name "cast iron plant" for the amount of neglect that it can take. It is a wonderful plant to have in your collection. There are many, many varieties, sizes, and shapes. Have fun collecting this plant!

We guarantee that you will love one or all of the plants described. You will love them for their beauty but also for the practice of grace and forgiveness that the plant will teach you! That's right. They will survive wrong lighting, draftiness, stale air, and even suffer through lack of watering (though even these hardy ones need water from time to time).

For your new plants, find an attractive pot made from clay, ceramic, glazed pottery, metal - or even a hanging basket - in which to display them. And above all, have fun plant shopping!