1. Purchase and plant bare-root roses, trees, vines, berries and vegetables.
2. Choose and plant camellias and azaleas.
3. Purchase cymbidiums.
4. Purchase and plant cool-season flowers to fill in bare spots.
5. Plant seeds of warm-season flowers for transplants to put out in spring.
6. Continue to plant winter vegetables from transplants and seeds.
7. Many succulents, including cacti, bloom in winter and spring; purchase new types now.
8. Prune deciduous fruit trees.
9. Prune roses.
10. Deadhead azaleas.
11. Mow cool-season lawns. Most warm-season lawns are dormant now and don't need mowing.
12. Begin to feed citrus trees in coastal zones.
13. Treat citrus trees for chlorosis.
14. Start feeding epiphyllums for bloom with 0-10-10 or 2-10-10.
15. Continue to fertilize cymbidiums that have not yet bloomed with a high-bloom formula.
16. Feed cool-season flowers.
17. Feed cineraria.
18. Fertilize cool-season lawns.
19. Water plants according to need (when the rains are not adequate).
20. Irrigate citrus trees.
21. Remember to water plants under eaves where the rains cannot reach.
22. Dormant spray roses and deciduous fruit trees.
23. Dormant spray sycamore trees.
24. Check citrus trees for pests.
25. Pick up dead camellia blossoms to prevent petal blight.
26. Protect cymbidiums from slugs and snails.
27. Control rust on cool-season lawns.
28. Check trees, shrubs, and ice plants in coastal zones for overwintering whiteflies. Control by spraying.
29. Pull weeds.
30. Spray peach and apricot trees for peach leaf curl.
31. Protect tender plants from frost.
32. Stake cymbidium bloom spikes.
33. Near the end of the month, check bamboo in coastal zones to see if it is time to propagate.

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African violets are one of America's favorite flowering houseplants. And because they are easy to grow, they are accessible to anyone who wants to add a little bit of blooming joy to their home. Even if you don't have a green thumb, they will reward your efforts with beautiful flowers throughout the year.

Often considered queen of the indoor plants, the African violet was first discovered in Tanzania in 1892. Originally the flowers were limited to shades of blue, white and lavender, but thanks to years of hybridizing efforts many color variations are now available.

African violets also vary in size and form. There are miniature varieties that grow to less than 6" in diameter, standard varieties which average 8-12" in diameter (but can exceed 18-24" when grown for exhibition), and trailing varieties, which can be grown as ground covers or as hanging plants.

Ideally, African violets prefer the natural light of a south facing window but they can grow well with artificial lighting, too. The key is to provide them with 8-12 hours of light per day. For more even growth, it is helpful to rotate the plants a quarter turn each day. They grow best in temperatures between 65ºF and 75ºF, which will help promote quick flowering cycles and better absorption of plant foods.

It is important to allow the soil for African violets to dry out completely between waterings. When watering, try to avoid watering the leaves, as this can leave behind unsightly stains. We recommend feeding them every two weeks, year-round, with a soluble plant food. This will keep the foliage a nice shade of dark green and help the flowers produce a more intense color.

African violets are one of the most popular houseplants and very easy to grow. With good bright light and regular feedings, they will bloom joyfully all year long! We invite you to stop by soon and take a few home.

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The venerable queen of Europe's historical gardens is unquestionably the rose. Her sovereignty holds sway over all others with an unforgettable aroma, color and elegance. Your garden will bring all others to their knees if you take a chance and plant these pulchritudinous perfumeries.

Begin by staking out--literally--where you plan to place these beauties. Using bamboo stakes will aid you in evenly spacing them. They will thrive in full sun and well-drained soil. Group them by color, maintaining a harmonious flow throughout your garden by combining them in a proportionate, orderly and congruous manner. Think of the rose as a great landscape plant that will give you 9 months of color. And remember that a soil pH level of 6.5 to 7.6 is the ultimate medium for raising a rose garden.

We're discussing bare-root roses today, which are harvested early winter after cool weather encourages dormancy. If you are wise, and purchase your roses at the most reliable of sources, White Forest Nursery, all of the soil around their roots will have been removed, and the roots surrounded with moist wood shavings, allowing for easy inspection. You will find the a great selection of over 150 varieties.

Soak the bare-root rose plants overnight in a bucket of tepid water prior to planting, for rehydration. Then dig a hole, 2 feet by 2 feet and at least 14 to 18 inches deep. Amend your existing soil with a good rose soil mix like Gardner & Bloome Rose Planting Mix.

In the center of the hole, firmly pat the earth into a cone. Spread out the rose's roots over this cone, placing the bud union (between the roots and limbs) at the correct level. The bud union is the most susceptible part of the plant, so placement either above or below the soil line is of utmost importance.

If you live in areas with extremely cold winters, bury the bud union about 2 to 6 inches below the surface of the ground for protection. But in milder zones, plant the rose with the bud union about 1 to 1 ½ inches above ground level. Use 3 Rose Nutri-Paks when planting to greatly increase the bloom. Back-fill the hole with additional soil mixture, remembering to gently tamp the soil around the roots. Water well. Add planting mix to cover the canes about ¾ of the way with the planting mix. After the leaves sprout, simply pull the planting mix away to provide a cover to protect from the summer heat. Don’t forget to add GardenMax to the top of the soil to transform the soil and provide the deep root system for healthy plants.

As soon as your plant blooms, it is developed enough for feeding with a rose plant food. Use Dr. Earth Rose Fertilizer for explosive bloom throughout the warm season.

Now take a break from your labors, and imagine what this bundle of sticks you've just planted will soon look like. Beauteous blooms will abound, and all because you cared enough to make the effort. Congratulations!

Gardeners who have learned the glories of picking fresh fruit from their own orchards anxiously await the bare root season to take their list of desired trees to the local nursery. Your first look at the bare root fruit tree that you envision bearing baskets of fresh sweet fruit may be a bit of a disappointment; they won't win beauty contests. But there is a bonus to buying bareroot. As those smart gardeners know, you get great fruit trees at a price considerably less than a containerized tree.

Unlike evergreen fruits such as citrus, deciduous trees go through a dormant phase during which they lose all their leaves. Whether you're choosing plum, nectarine, pear, peach, pomegranate, persimmon, cherry or quince trees, the safest time to dig these young ones from the field for transportation to the nursery sans soil on their roots, is when they are in a state of dormancy, hence the term "bare root." Planting your trees without soil from a foreign area means that the roots will grow into the native soil, the same soil they will remain in during their life span, thus ensuring a healthier, stronger tree.

True gardeners have learned patience. They will choose the smaller specimens, as the larger the tree the more out of balance will be the root to stem ratio. And while it may be momentarily painful, top that first year bare root off at 2 to 3 feet in height. Doing this means that the scaffold, which is the lower side supporting structural branches, will be lower to the ground, making harvesting and pruning less of a chore. And while we're on pruning, peaches and nectarines will need to be heavily pruned each dormant season; apples, pears, almonds, plums, persimmon and apricots, once they are established, will only require moderate pruning.

It's wisest to ready the planting holes for your trees prior to going to the nursery, so that you can get them into the ground the same day. As with most plants and trees, they like loose soil with good drainage, and sunny locations. If your soil conditions are less than perfect, but the location you've chosen is, why not plant your new additions in a raised bed? This allows you to completely control the soil into which you are placing the trees.

Best yet, why not plant 3 trees in the same hole. You can now select the varieties to provide a bountiful harvest for an extended period of time. You will have fewer fruits of each variety (less mess from dropped uneaten fruit) will the easy of care of a single tree. If you select a 3 groupings, it is easy to have a great harvest of fruit during the entire summer.

Group trees that have similar spraying needs, and those varieties of fruit trees that require pollinators. Bees and the wind will assist you with this, so how lucky if your neighbors have cultivars that are needed for pollination of your trees!

Your planting hole should be wide rather than deep. A depth the length of the rootstock, or approximately 1.5 feet, should suffice. Put your hands into the earth and form a slight mound. Place your tree on the mound, gently spreading out the roots so that they aren't encircling the tree. Blend Gardner & Bloome Harvest Supreme with ½ of the native soil to fill in the hole. Use 3 Nutri-Paks when planting to provide a gentle feeding for up to 3 years. Apply 1 bag of GardenMax to the top of the soil to convert your dirt into great soil that will insure a healthy root system to provide a bountiful harvest. Add Dr. Earth Fruit Fertilizer every 6 weeks. You will see your trees explode. By combining all of the products recommended, many people see their trees grow to a size that usually seen after 2 to 3 years.

Most bare root fruit trees actually bears fruit in 1 to 2 years, but what a relatively short wait for the satisfaction of knowing that you were a part of the growth process nearly from the beginning. And imagine how sweet that first bite of fruit will taste!

By Tamara Galbraith

So, your once-fresh Christmas tree is moving from Christmas to crispness. No matter. When you're ready to take down the decorations, explore all your options of how to reuse or recycle.

Many communities across the country offer a recycling program, whereby trees are collected and ground up into mulch for municipal use. Areas with lots of man-made lakes sometimes collect and sink old trees into waterways to slow erosion. Check with your local city government or county Extension Office to see if such a tree collection program is in place.

Also, if you have the space and don't mind "the natural look" in your landscape, lay your old tree in a remote corner of your yard; it will make a great hiding and nesting place for birds, rabbits and other small creatures. If you have a compost pile, you can cut the branches into small pieces, and add them to the compost pile. It will take time, but they will break down to beautiful soil.

Whatever you choose, be sure all the non-natural decorations, like tinsel and ornament hooks, have been removed. While sparkly mulch might have an interesting look, it's not very good for the environment.

Wishing you and yours a very happy and safe New Year!

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